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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee renowned high-end venues. Yet, situated high among these culinary titans is a modest salonu located in a distant area of north London.

A Shocking Recognition

The small Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. This recognition has left the family completely surprised.

“I’m totally shocked,” says the proprietor, referring to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their modest restaurant achieving such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its original character. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the cuisine, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can cost many times that figure.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate outside its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this culinary triumph.